335. THE GREAT
WATER-RIDE FRENZY
The long reach of
a life, a single life, like
the water surrounding
an island, will both
completely encompass
that life, and free it.
Often were the times
I would steal away to
the waterfront. Like
Melville's Ishmael,
I'd walk to the very
edge and simply stare
out to sea. Not for me
alone so much of his
heavy words rang out.
'Dark November of the
Soul,' and all that -
rather it was just the
breakaway from
confinement that
enticed. Like a
too-tight coat or
jacket constricting
the shoulders and
arms, there were
times when living on
land was just too
confining for the
light I'd see.
-
The Staten Island Ferry,
at that time I think, was
five cents. For that tiny
amount, unlike now
when it's free but you
have to disembark at
each end and wait to
re-embark on the next
ferry, you could remain
on the same boat for as
long as you chose, and
just ride back and forth,
over and over - night
or day. One fare. There
were certain ferry riders
too who actually did
this. It was a haven.
Especially at night :
deep, chilled, river
fogs, cloaking the
waterway and
allowing only the
passing glimmer of
harbor lights, other
boats, and the lights
of the tankers, tugs,
and work-craft. And
always, somewhere as
you passed, the lit lamp
of Miss Liberty, fogged
in or cleared, opening
out the harbor. The eye
could see far then. I
would just sit there, for
both the return trips and
both the return trips and
the departures, back and
forth, in a sort of floating
study-room; with the clang
of the gaggle of chains and
gates, and the little waves
study-room; with the clang
of the gaggle of chains and
gates, and the little waves
slapping the bottom of
the big-beast diesel ferry.
I would thrill, each time.
at the end of the NY bound
trip, to the approach of
the crowded and massed
buildings at the bottom
of Manhattan and the
sometimes raucous, the
almost crash-land, of the
ferry into its docking berth.
Two much turbulence, the
wake of another large craft,
a little too much speed into
the docking area, and the
pilings and the very pier
would gnash and grown
as the ferry smashed its
way in, with its people
aghast at the turmoil.
-
I think back now, and it's
all so funny what solitude
means. What the 'solitary'
aspect of life then was.
That's all gone now : today's
version of this same scene
would - I am bold enough,
and sorry enough, to say -
involve idiots. Involve a
hundred eager-festive
moron hands with
hand-helds and cell
phones and the digitized
means of recording the
scene, while retaining
nothing at all, and
experiencing less. Life
is dead-matter now, all
comatose and made stupid.
Life now seems to 'go on'
while people are busy
doing other things. The
distracting annoyances
of an everyday.
-
For what? For what
gets passed on?
Absolutely nothing
- the style and the
art and the moment
of the craft have become
the craft itself. Finalized
and fitfully comatose,
the people witness now
their equivalence of the
moon-shot landing onto
the crevices of nothing
at all. Yet, they cheer it
on and continue with
their vapid babble and
thrustless thrust. Like
bad sex in a water-machine.
-
From within the cabin
and confines of the
Staten Island Ferry,
which probably held
200 people, if filled,
and with its 24 or so
automobiles, if fully
stacked - (this was
back when they
allowed cars on
the ferry. Since 9-11
that no longer goes
on. Long time ago
already) - the entire
trip when properly
observed took on
a feel and rhythm
of its own. First,
there was the ceaseless
hum and power-sound
of the large diesel
engine pushing
this through the
waterway, no small
task, and one which
took much power;
riders had the choice
of all the indoors here,
with seating and
coffee and snack bar;
itinerant musicians
set up with their
saxophones or guitars,
plodding away,
over-topping the
noise, or trying to,
and collecting thereby
their nickels and
dimes and quarters.
Those outside, on
their open-air boat
ride, took one sort
of trip - exciting,
nervy, energetic -
while those who
stayed in cabin
enjoyed their own
equivalent of
transport through
strange territory
with a sort of
mumbled, boring
and very
institutional-like
auditorium sitting
amid badly-painted
walls and worse
posters and notifications.
The surly, the drink,
the dead or near-dead,
riding their forever,
they too were
usually perched
in their corners
cursing the mob
or sitting out the
frenzy in their own,
more odd, frenzy.
While children
wailed and mothers
tried keeping peace
with pretzels,
mustard and hot
dogs handed out
to the brats.
-
It was all like passage,
like a steerage compartment
on a simplified immigrant
crossing. You paid your fee
and you took your bag, often
not knowing from where
you'd left or to where you
were headed. Gendarmes
there were, but they were
heedless of most things.
As a passenger within,
to gaze out the window
on a cold, Winter night,
or better, late afternoon,
meant seeing the pace of
land against water. The eye
did get accustomed, in
almost some bio-rhythmic
way, of the speed of the
craft as it skirted the
water : nothing ever
seemed straight and
a viewer too would soon
feel accustomed to the
slow twirl of the ferry,
against the fixed visual
of the land off starboard,
or whatever - the turning
and the passage, and thus
the speed, became visual,
translated back, into
sense and information
and feel. I often tried, in
this way, understanding
my own relativity against
the hard matter of the
world. As we passed Miss
Liberty's graceful hulk, at
speed, I'd see the channel
behind her, the Kill Van
Kull, in passing, and know
I was born, right there,
but unsure where - as all
was churning, in a turn,
swirling some in a
boat-board frenzy of
water-speed and
water-fix. All things
standing still, while
apparently moving
together. Enough! Enough,
thought I, of this mental
gaming. Just live! Go on,
straight out! People lining
up for their snacks and
baubles nearby made me
realize that - though I may
have thought so, this was
not really the place
for deep thoughts.
-
It was all like passage,
like a steerage compartment
on a simplified immigrant
crossing. You paid your fee
and you took your bag, often
not knowing from where
you'd left or to where you
were headed. Gendarmes
there were, but they were
heedless of most things.
As a passenger within,
to gaze out the window
on a cold, Winter night,
or better, late afternoon,
meant seeing the pace of
land against water. The eye
did get accustomed, in
almost some bio-rhythmic
way, of the speed of the
craft as it skirted the
water : nothing ever
seemed straight and
a viewer too would soon
feel accustomed to the
slow twirl of the ferry,
against the fixed visual
of the land off starboard,
or whatever - the turning
and the passage, and thus
the speed, became visual,
translated back, into
sense and information
and feel. I often tried, in
this way, understanding
my own relativity against
the hard matter of the
world. As we passed Miss
Liberty's graceful hulk, at
speed, I'd see the channel
behind her, the Kill Van
Kull, in passing, and know
I was born, right there,
but unsure where - as all
was churning, in a turn,
swirling some in a
boat-board frenzy of
water-speed and
water-fix. All things
standing still, while
apparently moving
together. Enough! Enough,
thought I, of this mental
gaming. Just live! Go on,
straight out! People lining
up for their snacks and
baubles nearby made me
realize that - though I may
have thought so, this was
not really the place
for deep thoughts.
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