BELOW THE WATER LINE
(pt. 54)
We hung around roadways a lot - down towards
the end of the street there was a bridge that
ran underneath Route One - still does, but
it's all different now, and we'd always be doing
something down that way - there was a small,
shallow field quite near, but below, the highway
which basically had become our favorite killing
field, by which I mean when we'd gotten tired
of 'touch' football on the macadam street in
front of our houses, and when we had enough
players and the stamina to really go at it - like
Saturday mornings - we'd gather there to play
the most God-awful, slaughter-house violent
football, boys could ever imagine to play. Carnage.
There were two brothers, twins, or half-twins, or
whatever that is when they don't look at all alike
but are, Richie and Ronnie Squillace, who made
a career out of, like, ripping people's arms off and
going home with them for trophies, and then to
top it all off something would inevitably happen
to set them off on each other, and another fiery,
rip-roaring interruption would ensue, usually with
these two brothers tearing into each other good.
We'd be, yes, oblivious to the highway up above
our heads and over by our shoulders, but God
only knows what crazed scene our neighborhood
'play' must have looked like to a passing motorist.
'Organized' football stuff, on the other hand, probably
having gotten wind of our vile antics running under
the name of 'football' came up with the most-lame
version of all - 'flag' football. Which of course we
immediately scoffed at and referred ever-after to as
'fag-football'. The team-league play, at the same
fields as the Spring and Summer baseball league
fields, and others, and with pretty often the same
coaches, figured this 'no-bodily-contact' version of
football would somehow satiate raging monsters like
us. Good luck, there. They'd supply some stupid plastic
belt, you'd have to put it around your waste and snap
it into place and it had, left and right, a plastic strip,
or 'flag' on either side. It was a simple snap-away flag,
and instead of tackle or sandblasting the kid with the
ball, or any other kid, you go for the flag and pull it off.
Just a gentle tug, and it would come off in your hand.
No blood-letting, no grim tackle, no twisting and
forcefully bending anyone's knee or neck. Flag
football never quite made it to Avenel. It somehow
got stopped at the border.
-
One good indication of the how the
world
has changed, in these parts anyway, is the
odd fact - now mostly long done away
with
- that there used to be places where gasoline
stations actually had signs
out that said things
like 'Last Gas before Parkway', or 'Last Gas before
interstate' or whatever - in order to goad people
into gassing up before that
(imaginary long)
stretch of untended highway came upon them.
That's all been
done away with and most every
large convenience-store or discount house now
also
sells its own cheap version of named gasoline
- everywhere and most anywhere,
and no one
really goes anywhere anymore anyway. Nothing's
uncharted, to be sure.
The twist and glimmer of
older days' travel has long since disappeared and
been
subsumed into a funny mass of miscellany -
fast-foods, kid-kingdoms,
playgrounds and clowns
and buffoons and the obese (and all the wondering
why
obese), bargain-shopper membership clubs
and the endless array of the punk-cheap
and the
tawdry. Walmarts and the rest belittering the
Walgreens and the rest
which belitter the Burger
Kings and the rest - all somehow interconnected
by a
wiry rope of corporate poisoning which goes
into each item to make it more
sale-able, cheaper
and with better return. Fat is the fat of the land
now, and we
live off that fat of that land. Robinson
Crusoe where are you? (I remember once greeting
some people with
the words 'Now I get to be with the
hoi polloi' - thinking hoi polloi meant
high people.
(See how Avenel people shouldn't mess with big or
fancy-sounding names)? It doesn't. I was corrected,
but found a way to quickly elide off
the problem of
grammar and make good amends. It actually
means the rabble, the
regulars, the mob. (Could'a
got myself killed!). I always liked to think that's
where a lot of people were, those adventure- seekers,
gunning around in their cars, cruising through the
mid-Jersey dumps but thinking he was experiencing
the real
Jersey shore - which even I never experienced.
Keansburg, NJ, let me add as example, is
Nowhere Man
personified. But even knowing that, you miss a lot if you
blow through it, with your 'I'm better' attitude. That
wasn't ever, we were taught in the portables, wasn't
ever the idea behind which old George Washington and
his gang fought. Keansburg has a 'history' of sorts, but
you have to know where to look, and then get off your
high-horse too. The same kind of dead,
once-upon-a-
time-way-back-when history that a lot of these places
have. When
there were small fishermen cooperatives,
little rows of clammers' huts, fish
factories, boat
launches and docking, shacks and waterfront sheds.
All that
stuff was a century plus ago and it's all gone
now; even the Raritan Bay, which
Keansburg faces -
not even the ocean - is a ghost of itself, a pale relic
of
a waterway long ago useful and well-used. Now
it's more just a gas-pod of either
indecency or tanning
oils and debris. There was a time - and oddly
enough now
you can still walk the varied municipal
bay-front beaches thereabouts and see
the markers
in place, as if put there by municipal officials with
a guilty
conscience - when this was a coastal
beehive of high energy. Before the nation
had
really spread its vainglorious industrial tentacles
everywhere, this very
busy coastal area, both
sides of NYHarbor, here and points south and
north, were
covered with operational maritime
enterprises - clamming, oysters, shellfish,
lumber, agricultural items, cartage, brick-making,
ship-building, iron and steel, and well as a
huge fishing and vacation industry. It's all
gone now. All the junk they tried teaching
us in school there, and none of this really
cool stuff was ever even mentioned. How's a
boy supposed to learn? Here and there, by
surprise, one occasionally can yet see pieces
of old piers and pilings jutting out
of the
water, or, in the case of the section of Staten
Island across from Perth
Amboy and Sewaren,
an old boat graveyard, where the old wooden
ships and boats
were towed to languish, list,
rot and fall away. It's all mostly gone now -
waterfront development, expensive homes,
parkland walkways and all that have
replaced
it all, and wanted to, by design, obliterate even
the memory. Yet, as a
young boy I can well
remember, with my father in his 6 horsepower
motor on the
rear of a rowboat, boating the few
slow miles out to there, looking at the
pilings
and ruined things, sloshing up on the Staten Island
beachfronts, just to
explore and traipse around.
Pieces of boat, things sticking up out of water,
skeletal remains of hulks and keels and all of that,
at rakish angles and
dangerously hidden submersions.
I never really wanted it to, but somehow that
stuff
got into my head, and stayed there - memories
and fixations of maritime
stuff, sad and silly and
dead, stayed in place to this day. When we first
moved
to Inman Ave., and I try well to remember
this, my father's head was still in
the mode of a
seafaring kid, a young turk who'd run off, set out
to lie about
his age, quit from school, and join the
Navy, during wartime. He did so, took his training,
went to
California and was shipped out to the South
Pacific for the years it took for
that part of the war.
He was a gunnery guy on a battleship tenderm as I
mentioned - which
meant supply ship for the larger
battleships - bringing them food, provisions,
clothing, medicine, tools, books, toys, whatever
was needed to keep a ship at
sea going. His ship,
in addition, would take flak in the doing of its job -
it
was well-equipped with guns and battlements.
In addition, they'd pick up dead
bodies from the
other ships, and one of his jobs was to sew the
bodies into
canvas bags for burial at sea. That's a
joyful task I'm sure, especially in the
midst of
wartime, but at any time as well. He was, by
1954, not that far removed
from all that in his
head, and - as I well recall - he carried around
with
him the envisioning overall of being a seafaring
guy. Avenel was at the coast,
Sewaren, Perth Amboy,
Raritan Bay, not that distant from the Kill Van Kull,
the
Atlantic Ocean and the real first-class maritime
stuff. We spent half our time
going back and forth
to the Jersey Shore - all those rabid sea-coast towns,
small time fisheries, fishing boats, boat rentals, day t
rips to the offshore
bluffs and islands, days at the beach,
etc. It was always boat this or boat
that. After a while,
even I got tired of the crap, but it went on. Fishing and
crabbing, fishing and crabbing. It was all engrained
into him, and he never
shook it. I could sense, always,
that to him being at home or being idle was
like being
land-locked, stuck on dirt, far from the ocean. He
hated, just as
well, back then anyway, the mountains
and any idea of the lakes or freshwater
stuff.That was
then anyway - later in life he got over all that, began
visiting the Catskills, mountains and lakes, even
places like Colorado and the
Rockies. I guess time
and money mellowed him out, on that count anyway.
-
That old part of Staten Island was curious. I'm
talking
1958 now - right across from Perth Amboy,
which had a waterfront of its own,
of sorts, and an
active ferry service back and forth to Tottenville
(a town,
across, at Staten Island). We took it
often enough, as I recall. But, adjacent
to that,
and over a little from it was this boat graveyard
I've just written of.
Like the Kill Van Kull at
Bayonne (my father's other, more original
haunt) where
the waterway faced tugboat
repair yards and tugboat junkyards - also
with
submerged hulks and odd-looking wrecks
in and out of the water - this area was
a quieter
sluice of old activity, and everything was old,
wooden boats and
ships. It was very curious.
These watercraft, of whatever vintage, must
have
been sitting in the water since the 1920's
(this was in 1961, say) and 30's. Old
boats, put
out of service, waterlogged and listing, just left
there to finish
their rot. At shallow tide you'd
see the stuff and be able to walk among the
hulks - careful not to get pinched or splintered
or cut by any of the pieces
of this or that now
exposed by the wood-rot. I used to just sit there -
not
much interested in anything else - and just
stare into the wrecks. The water,
the island behind
me and the expanse of Perth Amboy and all those
oil tanks and
refinery things around me little
mattered. The boats still carried some of their
own arsenal of other days' sense and sight and
sound. Smell. Scents. Of this and
of that - I knew
I was part alive in another realm, another place,
doctoring
somehow to an in-between land that
owned me more than the land I was on had
claim
to. Wood is fanciful in its own way as it gets
darkened and moss-covered
or seaweed-covered
or whatever. It takes on another appearance -
startling,
deep-sea stuff, back from the depths
of some watery subconscious which is
somehow
still alive in each of us. You know how they say
the body is this or
that percent water, a big number,
I forget - well whatever that watery current
is
which yet flows within each of us can still resound
a telling bell - like a
lighthouse keeper pinging
his gong for the passing, lonesome ships outside.
That's what it felt like to me.
-
I get the feel, from life, now, after all these years,
that it's but a half-measure to our consciousness,
and that all we are placed
here to do is get through
the necessities of the everyday - all that shit we
make up about Society and the way it works and
getting along and getting ahead
and thinking
forward and riches and achievement and fame
and all that crud, yes,
get through all that WHILE
at the very same time progressing and
putting
together the ancient formulas of our inner Beings
- the ghosts of all
other previous lives and histories,
the manners and the ways of thought by which
we
each ourselves now have patterned THIS existence
- to which we really are
meant to have little
allegiance; fast, fleeting, and spurious as it is.
I want
to be sure not to get stuck on this point,
but 'Leisure' is the key. It's a
killer, an ease and a
dreaded dead-end which we seem all to want to
careen
into. But. Not. Evil lurks, and it lurks in
Leisure. That's why there's so much
emphasis, on
this stupid, flat society, put on it. It's how people
make money,
and lots of it - if individuals can
be suckered into the web of distraction
and
addiction by which entertainment, play,
acceptance and accumulation,
fantasy,
distraction and all the rest, and in turn be
coaxed out of some money,
each, for doing so,
there's a golden money-rainbow waiting for
whichever schmuck
wishes to throw his or
her Life away chasing it and piling it up -
the stock
market (a true, illusionary
gambling-whore's paradise, just using
larger words
and concepts). It's how we
are slowly killed, and there are
many murderers.
-
In my father's mind, and then in mine too,
in those days,
around 1960, these old waterways
represented a presence and a reality of a world
that he sensed was passing, and a passing I
was only witnessing. All things were
gone,
falling away. The old wooden hulks of those
watercraft sunk beneath the
Kill, left there
to die and rot as piers and fish-attractants
(but they forgot
all about the pollution),
they were still present as ghosts - I knew
my father
was seeing things I couldn't see
when he looked out over the water. We
somehow
inhabited two different realms -
overlapping, perhaps, in their ways - but
different nonetheless. It was a deep and dense
divide we needed to step over or
fall into.
Whichever way we went, it was there. My
father and I, in those
(early) years, never
came to any real agreements - and all his
and my later
lives, together or not, were
pretty miserable with and towards each other
-
but for us they were at last a period of shared
golden years, of a shared glory
in the knowing
that the two of us were watching a film together
on a completely
different screen than was the
rest of the world. In a sense, we both were
watching an over-and-over replay of a
figurative 'Titanic' going down. To our
satisfaction we were part of the script, and
we were writing some of it too.
There were
never happier, yet lonelier, moments between
two people, ever. If I
ever had to say 'when' I
knew my father best - it was then.
-
Going back to that section of Staten Island today,
and
even from the Perth Amboy side, everything
has been changed. In the 1950's it
was still possible
to find shacks and cottages, small, ramshackle
homes - of
eccentrics and loners, but not solely -
facing the old waterways. Aging sea
men, home
on land and waiting out there time (not that far
away, into Staten
Island, around the coastal rim
was Sailor's Snug Harbor (of which more later) a
vast and quirky rest home for retirement sailors).
The coastline still was
peppered with maritime
atmosphere - ship berths and ship repair yards,
tugboat
yards, all sorts of tank repair and service
facilities, oilmen, trucks, a sort
of Fulton Street
NYC in reverse - the tack and sail shops of Staten
Island
itself, instead of lower Manhattan. The
houses they've built now - and the
endless
rows of condo units - have taken control of
the area. It's as if
the developers wished for
no trace of
the old but instead only the idea
of the sea and the water - no reality, just
the
plume of image. These are ultra-modern,
sprawling and up-to-date places, on
old, old
ground. No one speaks any longer of what's
underneath it all - myriad
layers of coastal
Indian lore, dead colonials, dead seafarers,
dead boats and
ships. Too bad; at least when
he could, my father brought me there, reaching
blindly for the idea or theme of whatever it was
he couldn't articulate. I think
he was trying, in
his way, to share or impart to me the deep feelings
that came
through him for stuff like this, for his
displacement, his awkwardness in the
more modern
world of 'things'. My father was an emoter, a fiery,
impulsive
person who didn't quite understand why
that had to be given up - almost blunt
and tribal
in his ways, he still possessed many of the attributes
of older 'Man'
on the move, stumbling across plains
and oceans, man on the move, pushing
forward in
a blind energy - without words, or the craft of
words. It all
sounds strange, but to this day I
understand his need. I understand, as well,
what
things he was trying to get across to me, in his
wordless way. I listened,
I nodded, accepted.
That's why we'd return there, many more than
once, in his
ridiculous rowboat and
small-displacement crazy-man's Evinrude
outboard motor,
precariously strapped onto
the rowboat and madly dipping through ship
lanes to
get to these strange places. The 'open'
sea these trips weren't (though we'd had
them too),
but riding the ship-lanes in a 6-horsepower
rowboat was always a bit
crazy.
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